Wednesday, 14 April 2010

Cheltenham: a Regency Treasure

From the moment you enter the town of Cheltenham you are struck by the number of Georgian and Regency houses and municipal buildings - there are hundreds of them dating back to the late 1700's. In fact, the town has one of the largest concentrations of listed buildings in the country. The style of building is as pleasing to the eye today as it was 250 years ago: clean, fresh lines, mostly built of local, cream coloured stone.

The most prestigious street in the town is Promenade, situated in its heart, in the area known as Montpelier, a mix of designer shops, offices, bistros, sculpture, flower bedding and fountains. The photographs below demonstrate the grandeur of the area - the large building is the Borough Council offices.

Montpelier came into existence in 1808 when a new well was discovered there. A hundred years before, salt springs were discovered and, after George III visited in 1788 to 'take the waters', the town became even more popular. Montpelier's well ensured the success of the area and Promenade was laid out as a wide, tree lined walk in 1818.
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Today, Cheltenham still thrives, busy and loved by both local residents and tourists alike. The Town Hall, below, is the centre for many exhibitons and concerts and each year the town plays host to both literary and music festivals attracting a world wide audience.

It is not just the grand buildings and streets that contain architectural gems. The photographs below demonstrate the houses and apartments that can be found down many of the side streets. These photographs are of original buildings; many new buildings are also built in the style and blend in so well that, in many cases, they have to be sought out. Not many new buildings can afford the elaborate iron work railings as in these genuine, Regency flats. Ironwork is another major architectural feature of the town.

Cheltenham is a place that really has to be explored on foot to discover all of its secrets and eccentricities. Sitting in a street cafe on Promenade I realised I was looking out onto a cluster of red telephone boxes - a very traditional, English sight, rather akin to red double decker buses. These boxes are almost a thing of the past now, having been replaced by modern kiosks that look the same whichever city in the world you might be in.
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The Wishing Fish Clock is totally eccentric! The tallest mechanical clock in existence, on the hour the fish blows bubbles while the clock plays the tune 'I'm Forever Blowing Bubbles'!
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The Cotswold Hills rise steeply from the edge of Cheltenham and driving back to the secret valley through unknown country lanes, I came across another eccentricty. This stream that runs through the tiny village of Compton Abdale has had a witty crocodile waterspout added to it. There was no sign to explain the reasoning behind it: another case of British humour, I imagine!


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9 comments:

  1. What! All those Georgian and Regency houses in Cheltenham and we haven't even one. Our municipal offices are in a steel and glass rectangle downtown. It only sounds modern and edgey, it's rather plain and uninspiring. The alligator fountain is a great use of humor in the garden.

    Christine in Alaska

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  2. With each of your posts, I add another stop to my itinerary! I'm going to have to be there for months!

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  3. I am familiar with the understated British humor ;-) I just love the crocodile spout. Someday, I will make it to the Cotswolds....it just may take a few years :-)

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  4. Dear Johnson, Cheltenham Spa, Bath Spa, Royal Leamington Spa, Buxton, Harrogate...all of these very English towns boast a wealth of very fine domestic architecture which, although much was lost or vandalised in the 1960s, is now rightly being recognised and preserved. You pick out Cheltenham's ironwork which is, I agree, very splendid. I have, though, never encountered better than here in Budapest. I think that you would be totally fascinated.

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  5. Great tour of a truly beautiful place.

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  6. Johnson, thank you , thank you, thank you for the post and pictures. Cheltenham is near my ex-husbands former home. He had a friend in Cheltenham that we would visit and I would marvel at the beautiful buildings and do a little shopping...I even remember the fish clock! How fun, thanks for the mini-trip :)

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  7. Must visit Cheltenham one day :-)

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  8. I always enjoy visiting Cheltenham, a beautiful and charming place and now I would like to explore it more. Thanks for the tour.

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  9. Glad you have all enjoyedthe tour of Cheltenham - it is a beautiful and vibrant town. When I am too old to live in the secret valley I intend to live here instead. I have never lived in a town or buillt up place but I'm sure I would like being in this one!

    Tim - if you possibly can get to visit here, do so!

    Edith - I remember the ironwork of Budapest too. Years ago, when studying horticulture, I was at the college at nearby Szomberthely for a while. Budapest is a beautiful city.

    Elizabeth R - glad the post brought back happy memories. Perhaps this is a place you should consider to live in as house prices aren't too horrendous!

    Johnson

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